Filament library
Nylon print settings
The engineering-grade toughness king — and the thirstiest filament alive.
When a printed gear, hinge, or tool has to survive serious mechanical abuse — friction, repeated flexing, impacts that crack everything else — nylon (PA) is the answer. It's slippery, wear-resistant, slightly flexible, and immensely tough: closer to 'real' engineering plastic than anything else hobby printers run.
Its defining enemy is water. Nylon absorbs moisture so aggressively that a spool left out overnight can print poorly by morning. Owning nylon means owning a drying workflow — dryer, sealed storage, and printing straight from a dry box.
Difficulty
Advanced
Best for
Gears, hinges, tool parts, wear surfaces, functional prototypes with real loads.
Skip it for
Anyone without a filament dryer, decorative prints, damp climates without sealed storage.
Starting settings
Drying
70 °C for 8–12 h — Always, before every session — wet nylon is the rule, not the exception. Print from a dry box for anything long.
New to drying? Read how to dry filament first.
Bed adhesion
The one material where the usual surfaces struggle: nylon releases from PEI as it cools. Glue stick as a bonding layer (its normal job this time) or a garolite (G10) sheet are the reliable answers.
Mistakes to skip
- • Printing straight from a 'new' spool — even factory-sealed nylon often needs drying.
- • Using a hotend rated for 260 °C at nylon temperatures and cooking the PTFE liner.
- • Expecting PLA-style crisp detail — nylon prints softer edges and needs tuned cooling for overhangs.
Common questions
How can I tell my nylon is wet?
Steam and audible sizzling at the nozzle, matte fuzzy surfaces, and parts that feel weak or foamy. Perfectly dry nylon prints glossy and quiet. When in doubt — and with nylon, always be in doubt — dry it first.
Do I need a special printer for nylon?
You need an all-metal hotend that genuinely reaches 280 °C (most modern printers qualify; older PTFE-lined hotends don't), ideally an enclosure, and non-negotiably a drying setup. Bambu P1S/X1C-class machines print nylon well.
What's the difference between PA6, PA12, and CF-nylon?
PA6 is tougher but drinks more water; PA12 absorbs less and prints easier but costs more. Carbon-fiber-filled nylon (PA-CF) is stiffer, warps less, and prints more accurately — the popular choice — but needs a hardened nozzle. For a first nylon, PA12 or PA-CF are the friendliest.
Not sure Nylon is the right call for your project? TheFilament Pickerdecides in five questions — and thecost calculatortells you what each print costs.